Poolora
Pool guide

How to shock a pool

Shocking means raising free chlorine well above its normal level for a while, to burn off contaminants, combined chlorine and algae. The label sets how high you can go.

Updated

In short
  • Shock when combined chlorine is above 0.4 ppm, after heavy use or storms, or when algae shows up.
  • In 10,000 gallons, going from 2 to 10 ppm takes about 12.75 cups (102 fl oz · 3.05 L) of 10% liquid chlorine.
  • The labels we checked cap superchlorination at 10 ppm. Swim again only when chlorine is back in the label's swimming range.

When to shock

  • Combined chlorine above 0.4 ppm (the ANSI/APSP/ICC-11 limit): the "chlorine smell" and red eyes come from it.
  • After a pool party, a storm or a lot of debris.
  • Cloudy water with low chlorine, or the first signs of algae.

How much shock to reach 10 ppm

The sodium hypochlorite labels we checked allow superchlorination at 5 to 10 ppm. Amounts to reach 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons:

Current FCLiquid chlorine 10%Liquid chlorine 12.5%Bleach 6%Cal-hypo 65%
1 ppm14.5 cups
3.4 L
11.5 cups
2.75 L
1.5 gal
5.5 L
1.2 lb
525 g
2 ppm12.75 cups
3.05 L
10.25 cups
2.4 L
1.3 gal
4.9 L
1 lb
465 g
3 ppm11.25 cups
2.65 L
9 cups
2.1 L
1.1 gal
4.3 L
14.5 oz
410 g

For other sizes see the pool chemical charts by size. If you are fighting algae and your stabilizer is above 25 ppm, 10 ppm is not enough; read how to fix a green pool first.

Which shock to choose

ProductWhat else it addsGood for
Liquid chlorine or bleachNothing elseEvery shock; the best choice for algae
Cal-hypoCalcium: about 7.1 ppm per 10 ppm of chlorineOccasional shocks if calcium is low
DichlorStabilizer: about 9.1 ppm CYA per 10 ppm of chlorineRarely; repeated use pushes CYA up
Non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate)No chlorineBurning off contaminants; it does not kill algae

What a 1 lb bag of shock really does

Many bags say one pound treats 10,000 gallons. Here is what that pound does in 10,000 gallons, according to the engine: 65% cal-hypo raises free chlorine about 7.8 ppm (and calcium about 5.5 ppm); 56% dichlor raises it about 6.7 ppm and adds about 6.1 ppm of stabilizer. So "one bag" is not a fixed result: it depends on where your chlorine starts and on your pool's real volume.

How to do it

  1. Test free chlorine, pH and stabilizer. Bring pH into 7.2–7.8 first if needed.
  2. Add shock in the evening, when the sun will not burn it off, with the pump running. Pour liquids in front of a return; pre-dissolve cal-hypo in a bucket of water.
  3. Keep everyone out while you add it and until chlorine is back in the swimming range.
  4. Retest the next morning. If combined chlorine is still above 0.4 ppm, repeat.

When it is safe to swim

Your label decides, not a clock. The labels we checked say, for example, do not re-enter until chlorine is between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm (a 10% product) or not above 4 ppm (a 12.5% product). Test before anyone swims.

Common questions

Can I shock during the day?

You can, but sunlight burns chlorine, especially with low stabilizer. Evening doses last longer.

How often should I shock?

Only when there is a reason: combined chlorine above 0.4 ppm, heavy use, a storm or algae. Keeping free chlorine at the right level for your stabilizer every day is what prevents most shocks.

Do it with your own products

Poolora turns your test into the exact amount of the products on your shelf, in cups and ounces, in the right order, and tells you when it's safe to swim. Free to start; every chemical, water balance and history are part of Pro.

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Keep going

Sources

  • U.S. EPA registered labels for sodium hypochlorite pool products (Reg. No. 70271-10 and 82357-1): swimming re-entry range and 5–10 ppm superchlorination
  • ANSI/APSP/ICC-11 (combined chlorine 0.4 ppm or less)
  • CDC: Home pool and hot tub water treatment and testing
  • Doses: Poolora engine (mass balance for chlorine; carbonate-equilibrium model for pH with constants from the USGS PHREEQC database)